Refinancing your mortgage can be one of the best financial decisions you make depending on how frequently you do this, the purpose of your refinance and the refinance product you decide to go with. You’ll need to put your trust in another individual (usually your loan officer that works with a brokerage or a loan specialist with a bank) that will help you with the process of getting refinanced. Because you’ll need to trust someone that will act in your best interest, the following are a few tips so that you’ll be a little educated on the basic refinance process and a few “gotchas” about the mortgage industry.
The first tip I have is to shop around for multiple lenders and include in this search both a traditional bank as well as a few mortgage brokers and even a credit union. The reason for doing this is simply so that you’ll have a better idea about what the going rates for mortgages are. Rates do fluctuate on a daily basis and the likelihood of capturing the lowest possible rate in history is small. So watch for the attempts to get you committed earlier than you are ready by sales savvy loan officers who use the threat of increased rates to hook you. Do your due diligence before you commit to anything and give the opportunity for more than one person to quote you rates.
The second tip is to check to make sure your existing mortgage does not have a pre-payment penalty which will penalize you if you refinance. Most lenders have a 120 day prepayment penalty which means that you wouldn’t be able to refinance within that 120 days without paying the pre-payment penalty. This also means that you wouldn’t be refinancing more than 3 times per year usually. Some lenders do have a 90 day prepayment penalty, but most are 120 days. You can usually find this out in the original documentation on your loan or by contacting the lender or group that services your loan.
This third tip may be the one that saves you the most money in the long run. The base rate that a lender charges is called the par rate. The rate that you pay is based on this rate. If you are paying upfront costs including loan origination fees and other fees such as appraisals, etc, then you should be able to get very close to this par rate. If your lender is doing a no-cost refi, this usually means he or she is making money of selling the loan at a higher rate which will typically cost you much more in the long run. If you are in a home where you plan to live for the remainder of the time left on the loan, such as a 15 year or 30 year mortgage, your most cost effective solution is to get that rate as low as possible which may also include “buying down” the rate. Keep in mind that this strategy works the best if you are refinancing because the rate is very low. If you’re refinancing becaue of a cash out or some other reason and the rate is only so-so, you may decide to not focus as much on the rate because you’ll most likely refinance again in the future.
Also, if you don’t know how long you’re going to be in a home, whether there for a shorter amount of time, or have plans to “upgrade” to a new neighborhood within a few years, buying down the rate may not be the very best option. You may have more success financially if you focus on keeping your monthly cash outlay to a minimum and reduce the amount of capital required to close the loan. There are many good loan officers that will help you determine which program is the best for you. For instance, if you spend $3,000 to buy down the rate from a 5% to a 4.5%, you may save $30,000 over the life of the loan if, and only if, you keep that loan for the full 30 years (assuming a 30 year fixed mortgage). There is a break even where when you spend $3000, your break even may be 3 years or 4 years. A point in time when the buy down of the rate ends up being a better value to you than if you were to not buy down the rate at all. The same may be true for paying a higher rate to cover all of the closing costs through a no-cost refinance. Evaluate this with a good loan officer and you’ll have an idea about what would be the best thing to do with your loan officer.
The fourth tip I have for you is to only run the credit check when you’ve selected with loan officer and brokerage you decide to go with. This may happen sooner than later after you’ve done some of your initial homework. It used to be that every inquiry, no matter what, would lower your FICO score or credit score. Because when shopping for a loan, you may have several inquiries from multiple agencies if you are trying to get pre-approved. The credit agencies changed this just for this reason that multiple inquiries in a given period of time (I believe something like 30 days) would not count against you as multiple inquiries, but as one inquiry. Still, there usually isn’t a reason to have your credit “pulled” multiple times. Usually, you’ll know based on an interview with some loan officers which one you’d like work with. You can then have them do the credit check because that credit report will stay with your file. So even if the loan officer has relationships with multiple lenders, you won’t have multiple inquiries because the loan officer representing you already has the credit that can be supplied to the lenders.
The fifth tip I have for you is based on knowing about and understanding the yield spread premium or YSP for short. The YSP is a payout the lenders make to the brokerages for selling the loan at a rate above the “par” rate. The lenders have a rate sheet that they provide to loan officers and mortgage brokers. This rate sheet has a par rate which is the rate at which the bank doesn’t require a buy down nor does it pay out anything to the loan officers at this par rate. The thing that is tricky about this YSP is that it doesn’t show up on any of the loan documents. What this means is that if you are not a savvy borrower and don’t know about this rate, the loan officer may tell you that the no-cost refinance is higher because they can receive compensation from the lender. What they don’t tell you is how much they are receiving which is also fine. The problem comes when they charge more than would be considered a fair payout for work done within the industry. Keep in mind that most of the time, your loan officer is doing a lot of work together with a loan processor and they truly do earn their money, but it should be a reasonable payment and not anything exorbitant.
The main points to take away from this article are that you can save a lot of money if you’re aware of the numbers involved and have a basic understanding of how mortgages work. If nothing else, you can use this information to help you identify a good mortgage broker or loan officer from a loan officer that does not have your best interests in mind. Refinancing doesn’t have to be difficult, but expect to put some work in to this as your home is typically your most expensive purchase and is worth a little caution when dealing with the financial side of home ownership.
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